Tuesday 23 July 2013

Day 15 + 16 – train to Florence, Italian living (??) and the David


After sleeping in, and repacking (some) of my bag I took a taxi into the heart of Roma, to Roma Termini. It was crazy! The taxi driver warned me to watch my bag inside the termini, and pointed to all my bags (all 3 of them – damn shopping!) saying “Attentione” and then pointing back at Roma Termini. At least I was warned….
I entered the Termini and tried to determine which platform my train would be departing from. It was a nightmare! The first departure information board I spotted and read indicated I would depart from platform 5. So off I set to platform 5, through the hundreds of people moving throughout the terminal with roller bags, or backpacks, on their own, or in large groups. Everyone was going in every direction, and mostly seeming to have no idea which platform they were meant to be on… I held tight over my bags and pulled my suitcase (which seemed to also have been consuming large quantities of pizza, pasta and gelato as it had put on about 5 kilos) through the terminal and finally found platform 5. The train was already waiting, however the doors were closed. I ignored the young man who asked if I was going to Florence, as I had been warned about the men that would help you with getting your bags onto the train and then demand large amounts of money for their trouble. I walked all the way down the platform to carriage 4 where my ticket had indicated I would be sitting…. The doors were still shut and there were very few people on the platform despite there being only 10 minutes until the departure time… something was not right. I walked all the way back to the end of the platform and discovered that my departure platform had changed (eeek!) to platform 8, thankfully, not too far away. I quickly trundled my way over to my new platform, having a new appreciation for pack-horses, and down the where carriage 4 should be- there was currently no train, but many more people waiting to board, and men asking if I was heading to Florence. They were interesting to watch as they guarded their territory along the platform, even though they seemed to be all working together. The train pulled into the station 10 minutes after its scheduled departure (obviously it’s on Italian time!) and I boarded the train expecting to find an area for suitcases (like when I caught the train in Switzerland or Germany), however this was not the case. The only area provided was at the other end of the carriage (oops) and above the seating! Eeek! Thankfully an English tourist across the aisle from me helped get my suitcase into (and out of, in Florence) the small space above my seat! The train ride was lovely, watching the sunflower fields and stunning villas fly past while we floated along the train line. No pictures as I was holding one of the shopping bags from Florence, and I caught up on a few Z's missed during the tour :)
After about an hour and a half the train glided into Santa Maria Novella Termini in Florence and about 20 minutes later I arrived outside the apartment that would be home for the next seven nights, Ponte Vecchio La Costa 1 (booked through CIT holidays – Relais Ponte Vecchio). It was up a massive hill, and I was very grateful to have caught a taxi so I didn’t have to pull my suitcase up the cobblestone street! Elena, the lady from the company that owned the apartment, provided the key and a small tour of the apartment…It was not what I was expecting (to put it nicely). Unlike the advertised ‘newly renovated, comfortable apartment’, this place was old and shabby (not in the least bit chic) and had multiple holes in the walls, including one that had been fixed with clear glass on either side so it created a nice looking hole into the foyer, from the middle of the apartment! Awesome. As Mum and I are staying in the apartment we had had Flight Centre confirm twin beds and air-conditioning (it is hot here!!) about 2 months ago. However, this apartment had a double bed, and when asked whether the couch was a fold out Elena said that it was, but it had not been made up or anything as they had “assumed we would sleep in the same bed”. WHAT? Look lady, I don’t know how things go here in Italy but we Aussies prefer our own beds! I said I would try sleeping on the couch, unfolded and she left it at that, not suggesting anything else to solve the situation. She suggested rather than walking up the street we use the stairs that would lead us onto the parallel road. Her other bit of advice, “don’t use both air conditioners and another electrical appliance as the power will probably go out”…. Great! She showed mum how to turn the power to the apartment back on out in the foyer (thanks) and left us to ‘enjoy our stay’. Sure. We soon discovered that the fridge didn’t seal, which would make keeping food cold interesting and that the ‘comfortable couch’ was NOT quite so comfy as there was a giant pole sticking up at the back. There was no Wi-Fi, nor any English speaking channels, and yes I know, I’m in Italy and so shouldn’t be watching TV all the time, but it's sometimes nice to simply relax before bed and be able to actually understand what it is the TV presenter is saying (Not to mention to see if anyone had decided to join the party and push K.Rudd out of the top job... who knows in Australian politics?). Not only were the channels not in English, I don’t even think they were normal TV channels! They seemed to all be channel 31, or really bad quality shopping channels.
At this point, I left, and went wandering through Florence, trying to escape the hell that was our apartment. I wandered along the glittering Ponte Vecchio with its multiple jewellery shops. The windows of the shops all sparkle with gold and diamonds creating a beautiful walk over to the ancient city. I wandered in and out of the many shops in the streets of Florence and up to the Duomo, where I watched the herds of tourists arriving, listening to their tour guide, taking a picture of this magnificent structure, and then leaving in their herd onto the next attraction. Around 5:30pm I wandered back up to the apartment (literally! There were like 100 steps to get up to the street level and then up the road, and then up the flights of stairs to the front door!). Thankfully mum had done our washing, hung it up and so we headed out for some dinner. It was then bed time and I settled in on the couch to read my book…
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Day 16.
After a sleepless night (hey at least I got to read quite a bit of my book) due to watching the slight crack in the door, and freaking out over the holes in the walls and wandering if some axe-wielding murderer was watching us from the other side, it was time to get up and head to the famous Accademia, most known for housing the David. Prior to our departure in the morning Mum contacted the Flight centre to organise other accommodation, with very little help provided. She then tried contacting Elena, discussing how this was not the apartment we booked (our was meant to have a bath, which ours didn’t, which was a dead give away!). She simply said it was. Mum asked if their other apartment had double beds, it did, but no air-conditioning. What? She basically said there wasn’t anything she could do….
We met the tour group and our fantastic English tour guide outside the Accademia at 8:30am. The guide was very knowledgeable and quite funny calling us all poppets and cursing at the tourists complaining about waiting in the every growing line running outside the gallery and down the road. “I’ve been waiting for 30 minutes and the line hasn’t moved” I heard one guy tell the guard at the door. “Yes” was his reply. “Well, why is this line moving then? It’s not fair!”. “This is the tour group entrance, and your line should move every 25-30minutes as we let a few people in”.
I was glad we had booked with a group, as we simply lined up and waited for about 5 minutes, while the guide gave us a brief history of the gallery and then we were in! Fantastic! The alrt collection in the Accademia was amazing, and it showed an interesting evolution through the different ages, based on how the figures were portrayed and he colours and backgrounds used. It was fascinating to listen to the guide discuss the history of the art and how it depended on the religion and ruler at the time as to the colours and images used.
We wandered through the various rooms, finally making our way to the corridor which led to the amazing David. Leading up to the David there were four large, unfinished sculptures also by Michelangelo. These were created by him while he was waiting for his marble slabs to be dragged down from the mountains. It is unclear why he didn’t finish them, however they do provided a glimpse into the sheer size of the blocks of marble he used to sculpt his masterpieces. Our guide told us how they used to get the slabs out of the mountainside in ancient times, as of course they couldn’t just call up their local marble guy and get him to blast or carve out a large block. Instead Michelangelo himself would travel to the mountain and pick a site where he felt the marble was good. Theyy would then drive long metal rods into the mountain where the marble to be collected was located, strengthening the block so it didn’t break when pulled out. They then put large wooden wedges around the section to be removed, and filled the gaps made with water so the wood would expand and crack the marble apart. Ropes would then secured the marble to a higher point on the mountain, so they didn’t just roll down the hill and break, and more ropes would be connected to the slab so that horses further down could pull it out of the side of the mountain, and down the side. Workers would put large wooden poles in front of the marble so it could gently move down the mountain side without damage. They were then either shipped via horse and cart or boat to where they would be used. It was fascinating! These four unfinished statues still had the metal rods sticking out of them!
We then moved down to the most famous masterpiece in the academia – the David. I was shocked at how tall this rand statue is! It’s huge! Unfortunately you are not allowed to take any photos in the academia and so I can’t show you the David, however I’m sure you’ve seen images before! But just think, people (even tall ones) only come up to the base of the statue! It’s magnificent! It was also fun to watch the guards yelling and walking up to people saying “NO PHOTO! NO PHOTO!” over the light hum of the rest of the crowd admiring the David. The cat and mouse game between the guards and the public who would sneakily try to get a photo of the masterpiece was hilarious!
After finishing the tour of the academia, and exiting out through the shop, we headed back to Sante Croce to the brilliant gelataria for a salad for lunch, and their free Wi-Fi! Using this free Wi-Fi, and in the airconditioned comfort of this fantastic restaurant we found one of the last remaining hotels available for the next 6 nights and booked in! Not wanting to waste anymore time we headed straight back to the apartment and packed everything and moved out! It did take us two trips, but we got everything out and were welcomed into the luxury (compared to the apartment) of our new hotel, Gallery Hotel Art. What a fantastic establishment! Located a 1 minute walked from the Ponte Vecchio, and away from the crowds, this hotel provides a lovely spot to base our Florentine holiday from! By the time had moved everything and tried to contact Elena to return the key (she was suspiciously not answering any of her phones) it was already 5pm and we were exhausted! I don’t remember anything after moving our stuff and lying on the bed for what was meant to be 5 minutes until I woke up the next morning…. Oooops!

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